
Class 
Book. 



XXl 



Goipght!J°. 



copYKicirr DEPosrr. 



GOODWIN'S 



COURSE IN SEWING 



Practical Instruction in Needlework for 
Use in Schools and at Home 

BY 

EMMA E. GOODWIN 



Book I 




FRANK D. BEATTYS & COMPANY 
225 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK CITY 



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Coi'VKKiirr, ii,To 

r.v 

Emma I'.. Coodwin 




)aA^7:u',:i'^ 



BOOK I. 



AUTHOR'S PREFACE 

During many years' experience in the dressmaking trade, and in 
teaching the more advanced technical work of designing, cutting 
and fitting clothes, I have realized the need of a more thorough 
training for the workers in the first principles of needlework. This 
resulted in an observation, extending over the past six years, of the 
teaching of sewing in the public schools of our larger cities. From a 
careful study of what is given in the Domestic Arts courses of the 
most efficient of these schools, I have formulated a definite, practical 
outline of the work that should give a foundation for an advanced 
technical training, fitting for the trades, or enable the pupil to do all 
necessary household sewing. 

Correlated subjects have been purposely omitted, the course con- 
cisely given and fully illustrated. The drawings have been made 
from such articles as are actually produced in the sewing classes of 
the graded schools, and represent first the object completed, then 
details of each step not previously given in its construction. 

These illustrations in the hands of the pupils give them a clear 
conception of the article to be made, and the method of making, and 
should prove a valuable aid to those teachers who have not had the 
advantage of a technical training in Domestic Arts. 

The increasing interest in the vastly important subject of Indus- 
trial Education leads me to hope that the work I have done may be 
of some assistance to those who are striving to place the teaching of 
sewing upon a systematic, practical basis. 

I have selected McCall Patterns for use in this course as being, 
in my judgment, the most reliable and easy to understand and use. 

Emma E. Goodwin. 



INTRODUCTORY NOTE 

Book i 

The first book of this series is designed to provide a two-years* 
course, but the time may be shortened according to the desire and 
aptitude of the pupil. The models given upon canvas, using crewel 
needles and worsted thread, are important in training the eyes and 
finger muscles of the pupils to measure distances and follow direc- 
tions with the needle. Those who have this preliminary practice 
will proceed with the actual sewing much more readily. 

If it be desirable to omit any portion of the work or shorten the 
course on account of previous training or lack of time allotted for 
the work, selection may be made from the articles given embodying 
the principles of plain sewing that will be necessary in proceeding 
with the work of the second book. 

From the beginning pupils should assume correct position for 
the work, sitting erect with the base of the spine well back against 
the chair or seat, bending at the hips, not at the waist or shoulders. 
The arms should not rest upon the desk or table, and the work 
should be held at a point easily visible, but not close to the body, 
which necessitates a sharp bend of the neck to focus the eyes upon 
it. Occasional rest with an exercise in chest expansion should be 
practiced during the sewing lesson. 

Scissors properly sharpened should always be provided, and the 
practice of biting threads should never be allowed, both because it 
soils the work and may injure the teeth irreparably. 

Needles must be straight and sharp and of suitable size for the 
fabric and thread employed. 

7 



Thread should be no lonji;er than the arm of the pupil, that it 
may be drawn comfortably with one outward motion. 

The thimble, worn upon the second finder of the right hand, 
may be pressed against the eye of the needle from the top or side as 
suits the length of the fingers of the individual pupils. Expert 
ncedleworkers do not all use thimbles or needles in the same man- 
ner. Indi\idual development of these positions should be per- 
mitted. 

\Vhate\er the work in hand it should be carefully put aside. 
If small articles are used at first, they may be folded and placed in a 
paper envelope marked with the pupil's name, to be brought out 
at the next exercise. 

Neatness and order are most important throughout the study 
and practice of needlework, and should be an essential part of the 
training from the beginning. 

E. E. G. 



I. NEEDLE-BOOK 



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Fig. I. — Needle-book Cover. 

Materials. — Burlap canvas 2^ x 6 inches, flannel 2^ x 6 inches, 

crewel needle and colored worsted thread. 

Knot the thread. 

Begin each line of stitches in a different corner of the canvas so 
that the joining of the thread shall not be all in one place. 





Fig. 2. — Overcasting. 

9 



Overcasting. — Begin at the upper right-hand corner and work to- 
ward the left. 
Bring the thread from underneath through the first hole from 

the edge. 

Bring the thread over the edge and up through the third hole. 
Take the stitches in the same way through every other hole 

around the edges of the canvas. 

Draw the thread even, but do not make the stitches tight. 
'I'ake the last two stitches over the first two and cut off the end 

of the thread close to the canvas. 




Fig. 3. — Running. 

Running. — Begin in the second row from the edge and bring the 

thread up from underneath through the first hole. 

Bring the thread back through the second hole and up through 
the third iiole. 

Take one stitch in the same way, back and forth through every 
hole in the second row. 

Take the last two stitches over the first two and cut the thread. 

Even hasting. — Begin in the third row from the edge and bring tlic 
thread up from underneath, through the first hole, and back 
through the third hole. 
Bring the thread up through the fifth hole and back through the 

seventh hole, skipping one hole with each stitch. 

10 




Fig. 



-Even Basting. 



Take the last two stitches over the first two and cut tlie thread. 

Repeat the running-stitch in the fourth row. 

Work a simple design in running-stitch through the middle of 
the cover. 

Notch the edges of the flannel piece with scissors and place it in 
the middle of the cover. Fasten it to cover with the worsted 
thread by taking two short stitches through to the right side in the 
fifth and sixth holes from the edges. This leaves a long stitch over 
the flannel on the inside. Bring the two ends of the thread to- 
gether and tie in a bow-knot inside. 




Fig. s. — Needle-book Inside. 
II 



II. RECEPTACLE 



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Fig. 6. — Square for Receptacle. 

Materials. — Burlap canvas 6x6 inches, crewel needle and colored 
worsted thread. 
Knot the thread. 



12 



Blanket -St itch. — 
Begin at a lowei 
left-hand corner 
and work to- 
ward the right. 
Bring the thread 
up through the 
second hole from 
the edge. 

Put the needle 

back through the 

next hole to the 

right in the same 

row. 

Hold the thread that comes from the first hole under the left 

thumb, so that the point of the needle comes out each time over the 

loop of the thread. 

Draw the thread smooth, but do not make stitches too tight. 
Take one stitch through the loop at the edge made by the first 
stitch, and fasten the thread on the under side with two small 
stitches over the last loop. Cut the thread. 




Fig. 7. — Blanket-stitch. 



Back-Stitch. — Begin at an upper right-hand corner in the first 

below the blanket-stitch at the edge. 

Bring the thread 
up from the under 
side, through the 
second hole from 
the end of the row. 

Put the needle 
back through the 
first hole and up 
through the third. 



row 




Fig. 8. — B.\ck-stitch. 



13 



Put the needle back through the second hole and up through 
the fourth, making small stitches that meet on top, and longer 
stitches that overlap on the under side. 

Take the last two stitches over the first two before cutting off 
the thread. 




Fig. 9. — Cross-stitch. 



Cross-stitch. — Begin in an upper right-hand corner and use the 

next two rows of holes for the design of cross-stitches. 

Bring the thread up through the first hole in the lower row. 

Put the thread back through the second hole in the upper row, 
and up through the first hole in upper row. 

Put the thread back through the second hole in lower row, and 
up through the third hole in lower row. 

This will cross the threads on the upper side and make two 
parallel lines, like running-stitches, on the under side. 

Take two small stitches over the last stitch on the under side to 
fasten the thread. 



14 




Oversewing. — 
Fold the square 
o- diagonally, choos- 
ing a well finished 
corner for the top. 
Begin at the opening 
made by the two corners that 
come together. 

Leave \ inch of the end of the 
thread between the edges, to be sewed 
down by the first few stitches. 
Take three stitches over and over in the 
same place, to fasten the corners. 
Take stitches over the edges, through the 
loops, down to the point. 

Fasten the thread by sewing back over the two stitches at the 
end. 

Cover a small brass ring with blanket stitches, and fasten to the 
top of the receptacle with over and over stitches; or make a hanger 
of twisted thread, fastened in the same way. 



15 



III. LAMP MAT 






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iIliIliIi 

Fig. II. — Lamp Mat. 

Materials. — Burlap canvas 6^ x 61 inches, crewel needle and col- 
ored worsted thread. 
Knot the tlircad. 

\6 



Blanket-stitchy (liferent form. — Begin as for blanket-stitch, Fig 7. 

Take one short stitch and one long stitch, then another short 
stitch. 

Leave one hole between and repeat the three stitches in the same 
way, around the edges of the mat. 




Fig. 12. — Outline-stitch. 



Outline-Stitch. — Begin at a lower right-hand corner and work up- 
ward. 
Bring the needle up through the first hole at the bottom, drawing 

the thread to the right side. 

Put the needle back through the third hole and up through the 

second. 




Fig. 13. — Catch-stitch. 
17 



Put the needle back through the fourth hole and up through the 
third. 

Each time bring the needle uji to the left of the stitch already 
taken. 

Fasten the thread on the under side, as before. 

Catch-stltcli. — Bring the needle up through the first hole of the 

design at a lower left-hand corner, and work upward. 

Cross over to the third row to the right and put the needle back 
through the fourth hole and up through the third. 

Keep the thread at right of the needle when the stitch is taken 
on the left side, and at left of the needle when the stitch is taken on 
the right side. 

Fasten the thread on the under side, as before. 

Darning. — Use thread without knotting. Begin at a lower right- 
hand corner and work upward. 

Take running-stitches under one thread and over the next. 
Turn at the top and work downward through the next row, 

taking up on the needle the threads that were passed over in the 

first row. 

Fill the center of the mat with darning-stitches. 




Fig. 14. — Darning. 
18 



IV. PRACTICE PIECES 




Fig. is. — Designs for Running-stitches. 
19 



Materials. — Unbleached muslin 6x6 inches, No. 8 needles, No. 
50 colored cotton thread and a strip of cardboard 6 inches long 
and I inch wide. 



-J. 



Fig. iO. — Circle Marker. 



Circle Marker. — Draw a straight line lengthwise through the center 

of the cardboard strip. 

Begin ^ inch from one end and place dots on this line, ^ inch 
apart. 

Begin at the second dot and punch small holes to admit the 
point of a pencil. 

In using the marker, place a pin through the first dot that was 
left at the end, and through the material, which has been pinned out 
on a flat surface. Put the pencil through the hole measuring half 
the diameter of the circle to be drawn. Using the pin as a pivot, 
swing the marker around with the point of the pencil, and mark the 
outline of the circle on the material. 

Draw different geometrical designs and follow the outlines care- 
fully with running-stitches. 

Use thread without knotting. 

Begin to sew by taking two stitches over and over in the same 
place. 

Make stitches even, passing over the same number of threads in 
the cloth as are taken up each time on the needle. 

Join the stitches by running the last two over the first two, and 
fasten with two stitches taken over and over before cutting the 
thread. 



V. BAG 




Fig. 17. — Finished Bag. 

Materials. — Striped or checked gingham 6x 12 inches, 2 tapes 18 
inches, No. 8 needle and No. 50 white cotton thread. 
Fold the cloth across the width and pin the sides of the bag 

evenly together. 

Knot the thread for basting. 

JJneven hasting. — Allow \ inch seams and begin with a short 
stitch taken through to the under side, leaving the knot on top. 
Take stitches \ inch long on the upper side and about J inch 

long on the under side. 

Baste the side seams of the bag. 



Half hdck-stitching. — Measure if inches from the top of the bag 
and begin sewing the side seam just below the line of basting- 
stitches. 

Take two stitches over and over to fasten the thread. 

Take one stitch at a time as in back-stitching, jnittin^ the needle 
back only one-half the length of the stitch on the under side. 




Fig. i8. — Half Back-stitching. 



This makes short stitches on top with spaces between equal to 
the length of the stitches. 

Overcast the seams, taking stitches \ inch deep and \ inch apart. 

The if inches left without sewing, at the top of the bag, are to 
be turned in. 

Baste each edge down e\en w ith the scam. 

Turn \ inch fold across the raw edges of the top. 

Turn again, a :| incli fold, and baste down. 

Sew down the edge of this fold with running-stitches. 



22 




Fig. 19— Wrong Side of Bag. 



Place a second row of running-stitches | inch above the first row 
to form a casing for the tapes. 

With tape needle or bodkin run one tape in from each side of 
the bag, allowing the two loose ends of each tape to come out at 
opposite sides. Tie the ends of each tape together. 

Remove bastings and turn bag right side out. 



23 



VI. PENCIL CASE 




Fig. 20. — Pencil Case, Finished. 



Materials.— Gingham 5x 17 inches, cut lengthwise of the cloth; 
tape 12 inches, No. 8 needle and No. 50 cotton thread. 
Turn } inch fold on the long edges. 
Turn ^ inch fold across one end. 
Fold the piece crosswise and crease the middle of it. 



24 



Open again and fold the end with Uie raw edge over to this 
crease. 

Lap the end having ^ inch fold over the rirst end, placing the 
raw edges together on the inside. 

Pin carefully into position and baste around the outside edges. 

Working from right to left, oversew the edges together. 




Fig. 21. — Oversewing. 



Oversewing. — Put the needle through one of the folded edges and 

leave h inch of the thread between the edges, to be sewed down 

with the first few stitches. 

Take small stitches of even depth and space over and over 
through the edges, pointing the needle through at right angles to 
the seam. 

Take the last two stitches over and over the first stitch, to fasten 
the thread. 

Finishing. — Fold the pencil case lengthwise through the center and 

mark with a crease. 

Fold each half of the case in three divisions and mark, making 
six divisions in all. 

25 



Begin at the folded edge across the middle and follow each 
crease with a line of running-stitches. 

Take three or four stitches over and over the folded edge at the 
beginning of each division. 

Back-stitch the middle of the tape to the edge of the case at the 
middle of one side, to tie around the case when in use. 

Remove bastings. 



26 



VII. PRACTICE PIECES 




Fig. 22. — Starting the Hem 




Fig. 23. — Hemming. 
•27 




Fig. 24. — Joining thk Hemming. 

Materials. — Unbleached muslin ^ x j inches, No. 8 needle and No. 
50 colored cotton thread. 

Hemming. — Turn | inch fold along the lengthwise edges. Turn 
again, ^ inch hem on one side and i inch hem on the other. 
Baste the hems. 
Begin at the right end of hem and, pointing the needle to the 







^^iS»i^^.-^>^^ ^^>^^X^.,il0iy^y^y/^ 



Fig. js- — Right Side op Hem. 
28 



right, take the first stitch through the fold only. Leave J inch of 
the thread to be sewed under the fold with the first three or four 
stitches. 

Take two stitches over and over at beginning to secure the end. 

Take small stitches of uniform slant and size through to the 
right side and up through the folded edge. 

Joining the hemming. — When half way through the hem, cut the 
thread off^ to within | inch of the last stitch and draw this end 
under the fold with the point of the needle. 
Take the next stitch with a fresh thread through the hole in the 

fold where the last stitch came out. Leave | inch of this thread to 

be placed under the fold and fastened with the other loose end by 

the next few stitches. 

Finishing. — Take two or three stitches over and over through the 
fold to secure the end of the hemming before cutting the thread. 

(Note. — In folding hems be careful that the warp and woof 
threads are parallel with each other on the right and wrong 
sides. This is necessary to prevent twisting of the cloth.) 
Wide hems or those in soft fabrics that do not hold a crease 

should always be basted carefully before hemming. 



29 



VIII. DOLL'S APRON 




Fig. 26. — Doll's Apron. 



Materials. — Gingham or percale 8x12 inches, cut crosswise of the 

cloth; tape or ribbon for ties 12 inches, No. 8 needle and No. 

50 cotton thread. 

Turn and baste \ inch hems across the shorter edges for the sides 
of the apron. 

Turn and baste i-inch hem across one of the longer edges for the 
bottom. 

Turn and baste ^ inch hem across the remaining edge for the top. 

Hem carefully as on practice piece. 

Place one row of running-stitches through the middle of the top 
hem to make a casing. Run in tape or ribbon to gather and tie the 
apron. 

30 



IX. PATCHING 




Fig. 27. — Hemmed Patch, Right Side. 



Fig. 28. — Hemmed Patch, Wrong Side. 



Materials for hemmed patch. — Striped or checked gingham 5x5 

inches, with small hole in center to represent worn garment; 

patch 3x3 inches. 

Turn I inch fold on the right side around the edges of the patch. 

Place the patch with its right side against the wrong side of the 
piece to be mended, with the hole in the center of the patch. Match 
the checks or stripes, placing the warp and woof threads running 
the same way in both pieces. 

Baste the patch in position and hem down the edges carefully 
to the piece representing garment. 

Cut the worn portion on the right side to within h inch of the 
lines of the hemming. 

31 



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Cut the corners diago- 
nally i inch, and fold under 
the ed^es of the opening. 

Baste down to the patch, 
beinj; careful to keep the 
corners well folded under. 
Hem on the ri^ht side. Re- 
move bastings. 

Materials for oversewed 
patch. — Strijied or 
checked pinirham 'j x ^ ^"^ ^^' — oversewed patch, right side. 

inches, with hole in center; patch ^x ^ inches. 
Turn -} inch fold toward the wrong side, around the edges of 
the patch. 

Place the patch right side up, on the right side of the piece rep- 
resenting garment, with the hole back of the center of the patch. 
Match the stripes or checks and baste in position. 

Fold back the piece rep- 
resenting garment so that 
the folded edges meet exactly 
the folded edges of the patch. 
Oversew these edges care- 
fully together. 

On the wrong side, cut 
out the portion covered by 
the patch to within \ inch of 
the line of oversewing. 

Open the seam flat. Cut 
out the cloth where the cor- 
ners of the patch fold over. 

Overcast the edges sepa- 
rately. 







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Fig. 30. — OvKRsHWED I'atcii, Wrong Side. 



i2. 




Fig. 31. — Flannel Patch, Right Side. 



Materials for fiann el patch, set 
in. — Striped or checked 
outing flannel 5x5 inches, 
with small hole in center; 
patch ^x'^ inches. 
Cut a square hole, i inch 
each way, from the center of 
the piece representing gar- 
ment. 

Fold the piece diagonally 
and cut into the corners ^ 
inch. 

Place the patch with one edge even with the edge of the hole and 
the right sides of the pieces together. Keep the warp and woof 
threads of the cloth even and match the stripes or checks. 

Begin at one corner and baste the seam carefully to second 
corner. Turn and baste to the next corner, keeping the threads of 
both pieces even. Baste across the next side, being careful that the 
patch exactly fits the size of the hole, that the threads of the goods 
are even, and that the stripes 
or checks match perfectly. 
Baste along the remaining side 
to the beginning. 

Back-stitch the seam in 
the line of basting. 

Remove the basting, trim 
the edges even, and open the 
seam flat. Cut away the cor- 
ners of the patch that fold over. 
Catch-stitch across the 
open seam from the wrong 
side, taking very small stitches 
through to the right side. 




iiiniiiiiiiiii 



Fig. 32. — Flannel Patch, Wrong Side. 



33 



Mutrridls J or flatitiel patchy 
cdtch-stitched. — Striped or 
checked outinj; flannel 5x5 
inches, with hole in center; | 
patch ^ y^ I inches. ^■' 



Baste jxitch over the hole 
with the right side to the 
wrong side of the piece repre- 
senting garment, as in hemmed 
patch. 

Catch-stitch the raw edges 
of the patch to the piece rep- 
resenting garment. 





Fig. 34. — Flannel Patch, Wrong Side. 



IP 
f 

Fig. a. — Flannel Patch, Right Side. 



Cut out the material frofn 

I the right side to w ithin \ inch 

of the line of catch-stitching 

around the edges of the patch. 

Baste these edges and 
catch-stitch to the patch from 
the right side. 

Remo\e bastings. 

When mending garments, 
j)ress the patches from the 
wrong side, or from the right 
side with a piece of cloth 
between the iron and the 
material to be pressed. 



.14 



X. TAPE AND BUTTON SEWING 




Fig. 35. — Tape and Button Model. 



Materials. — Bleached muslin 4^ x 7 inches, tapes 2^ inches, 3J 
inches and 5 inches; one four-holed button and one two-holed 
button. 
Turn I inch fold around the edges of the muslin. Fold even, 

with the shorter sides together and the raw edges inside. Baste and 

oversew the edges. 

35 



For a fiat tape loop or hanger. — Turn under \ incli at each end of the 

2h inch tape and baste Hat across one end of model piece, ^ 

inch from the edge. 

Back-stitch the tape to the folded muslin, \ inch from each end. 

Hem down the doubled edges of the tape beyond the back- 
stitching. 

For a tape used to tie garments. — Finish \ inch hem at each end of the 

3^ inch tape. 

Oversew one end firmly to the edge of the model, at the end 
opposite the flat loop. Sew back over the first stitches to the point 
of beginning and fasten the ends securely. 

For a tape loop. — Fold the 5-inch tape to form a point, and over- 
sew the inside edges together for the space of h inch from the 
ends. 
Fold the ends under \ inch and baste to the side of the model, 

Ia]«ping the tape over the edge to cover the folded ends. 

Hem the ends of the folded tape to the muslin and hem the edge 

of the muslin across the tape. 

To sew on two-Jioled button. — Fold and crease the model lengthwise 

through the middle and mark on the crease places for buttons, 

i^ inches from each end. 

Double and knot the thread. Take a short stitch through from 
the right side, at right angles to the warp threads of the muslin. 

Put the needle through one hole of the button from the under 
side. Place the button with the two holes exactly over the stitch 
already taken through the muslin. 

Put the needle back through the second hole. Slip a pin under 
the first stitch across the top of the button, to keep the threads from 
being drawn too tight. 

36 



Take three or four stitches back and forth through the holes of 
the button, and bring the needle out between the cloth and the 
button. 

Remove the pin. Wrap the thread two or three times around 
under the button. This will provide space for the buttonhole and 
protect the threads from wear. 

Put the needle through to the back and fasten the thread with 
two or three stitches over and over those on the under side. 

To sew on four-holed button. — Take a small stitch with the double 

knotted thread, as for two-holed button. 

Put the needle through one hole of the button from the under 
side. 

Place the button so that the two holes at the right are exactly 
over the stitch taken in the muslin, with the knot under the 
upper right hole and the thread. coming up through the lower right 
hole. 

Put the needle back through the upper left hole and up through 
the lower left hole. 

Bring the needle back through the upper right hole. 

Slip a pin under the stitches across the top of the button. Sew 
again, up through the lower right hole and down through the upper 
left. 

Sew up through the lower left hole and down through the upper 
right. 

Bring the needle out between the button and the cloth. 

Remove the pin. Wrap the thread three times around under 
the button. 

Put the needle through. Fasten the threads with two or three 
stitches over and over the stitching on the under side. 



27 



XL KITCHEN TOWEL 

Materials. — Linen crash or glass toweling J yard and tape for loop 

5 inches. 

Cut the ends of the towel straight with the woof thread. Fold 
under \ inch across the ends. Fold again, \ inch, baste and 
hem. 

Sew a loop of tape at the middle of one end, as taught on tape 
and button model. Fig. 35. 



XII. DECORATIVE STITCHES 




Fig. 36. — Model for Decorative Stitches. 



Materials. — Practice piece of red or blue flannel 6x8 inches, long- 
eyed embroidery needle, white cotton embroidery thread. 
Turn and baste ^ inch fold along the sides and I inch fold 

across the ends. 

Cut a narrow strip of stiff paper the width of the piece and fold 

into quarters. The creases made are to be used as a marker t(p 

guide the three lines of basting. ■ . ; 

Divide the piece of flannel into four equal sections by running 

parallel lines of basting-stitches from one end to the other. 

Catch-stitch from the upper side through the raw edges of the 

half-inch fold. (See Fig. 13 for catch-stitching.) 

39 




Fig. 37. — Chain-stitch. 



Chain-stitch. — Bring the knotted thread 
through from underneath at the top of 
the first marking line. Work toward the 
bottom. Hold the thread to the left with 
the left thumb and put the needle back 
at the point where the thread came 
out. 
Take a stitch about I inch long and bring 

the needle through again directly below and 

over the thread which forms the loop. 

Be careful that the stitches follow in a 

straight line and are of even length. 

Fasten on the under side by taking two 

or three stitches over the last stitch. 




Single feather-stitch. — Begin at the top of the second marking lin€, 
bringing the thread through as for chain-stitch. 
Hold the thread to the right with the loop under the left thumb. 

Put the needle back 
and take a stitch I inch 
long and g inch to the 
rigln of the place where 
the thread came out, 
bringing the needle out 
over the loop of thread. 
Hold the loop of 
thread to the left and 
take another stitch ^ 
inch to the left of the 
place where the last 
stitch came out. 

Follow the line with 
stitches taken first to 
40 




Fig. 38. — Single Fkather- 

STITCH. 



Fig. 39. — DoiBLE Feather- 
stitch. 



the right and then to the left. Be careful to keep the stitches of 
the same slant and length. 

Remember to throw the loop of thread to the side on which the 
stitch is being taken. 

Fasten underneath with two or three stitches taken over the last 
stitch. 

Double feather-stitch. — Begin as for single feather-stitch. Take 
two stitches to the right and two stitches to the left of the line, 
always putting the needle back on a line with the place where the 
last stitch came out. 
Triple feather-stitch may be done in the same way, by taking 

first three stitches to the right, then three stitches to the left. 

The stitches may be vertical, following the line of the warp 

threads, or they may be taken diagonally across the warp and woof 

threads, but they should be of uniform slant and size. 



Finish the ends of the model with buttonhole-stitch. 



Buttonhole-stitch. — Begin at an upper right- 
hand corner and work toward the left. 
Bring the knotted thread through the 
edge of the fold, close to the end. 

Put the needle from the under side, half- 
way through the cloth, | inch from the edge, 
and hold it in this position. 

Take the double thread that comes from 
the eye of the needle between the thumb 
and finger of the right hand. Pass it around 
to the left, under the point of the needle. 

Draw the thread through, straight out 
from the edge. . 

Take the next stitch | inch to the left 

41 




Fig. 40. — Buttonhole-stitch. 



and even u ith the first stitch. Pass the thread under the point of 
the needle and draw it out straight from the edge, as before. 

Make the stitches straight and even, and do not draw the threads 
too tight. 

Fasten by taking two stitches over and over on the under side. 

Buttonhole-stitch may be worked from left to right. The 
thread must then be brought from the left side of the needle and 
around the point from left to right, in order to give the edge the 
same corded appearance. 



4« 



XIII. GATHERED BAG 




Fig. 41. — Gathered Bag — Finished. 



Materials. — Gingham or print 12 x 14 inches, two strips for bands, 

2x7 inches and two pieces of tape 24 inches. 

Fold the cloth with the shorter edges together for the top. Fold 
again, lengthwise. Round off the two lower corners of the bag. 

Baste \ inch seam around the bottom and sides of the bag. 

Sew just below the line of basting with half back-stitches, to 
within I inch of the top edges. (See Fig. 19 for half back-stitch- 
ing) 

Finish the raw edges left at the sides with small hems turned in 
even with the seam. 

Overcast the seam. 

Fold each half at the top of the bag in four equal divisions, and 
mark with short lines of running-stitches. Gather each half \ inch 
from the edge, taking short running-stitches on the under side and 
stitches twice the length on top. 

43 




Fig. 42. — Gathering. 



Turn \ inch folds 
across the ends of the 
two bands. Divide them 
each into four equal 
spaces, with lines of 
running-stitches. Place 
the hands to the top of 
the bag, w ith the creased 
ends of the bands at the 
edges of the hemmed 
openings. Pin the gath- 
ers at the marking 
stitches. Draw up the gathering threads to the size of the band. 
Baste in place. Sew the bag to the band with a back-stitch 
through each gather. 

Turn \ inch fold along the loose edges of the band, and 
turn down half the width of the band, bringing the folded edge 
over the seam to the line of gathering. Baste, and hem, taking 
a stitch through each 
gather and up through 
the edge of the band. 
(See Fig. 23 for hem- 
ming.) 

Begin where the band 
joins the bag and over- 
sew the creased ends one- 
half the width of the 
band. Remove bastings. 
Turn the bag right side 
out and run the tapes 
in from opposite sides of 
the bag. (See bag in 

8' /*'' F'G. 43- — Bag, Gathered and Attached to Band. 

44 




XIV. CHART 



Cloth ma Je from cotton: 

Gingham. Muslin. 



Lawn. 



Cloth made from flax. 
Linen. 



Crash. 



Canvas. 



Cloth made from silk: 
Taffeta silk. 



Satin. 



Velvet. 



Cloth made from wool: 

Flannel. Cashmere. 



Broadcloth. 



Arrange small samples of each kind of cloth named. 



45 



XV. SUGGESTIONS FOR HOME WORK 

Pupils having finished the work shown in this book should be 
able to make the following articles: 

Hemmed towels. 
Hemmed dusting cloths. 
Laundry bags. 
String bags. 
Wall pockets. 
Slipper cases. 
Dusting caps. 
Sleeve protectors. 
Children's bibs. 

Kitchen aprons, and other simple 
and useful articles. 



46 



Memoranda 



47 



THE NEW IDEA IN TEACHING READING 

AS UMUOUIEU IN 

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By MAUD SUMMERS 
The Literature of Childhood Presented in the Language of Childhood 

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THE LYRIC SONG BOOK 

By HARVEY WORTHINGTON LOOMIS 

For Home and School Use and for Choral Societies. A choice collection 
of beautiful songs with beautiful accompaniments. Folk songs of all nations, 
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Price 65 cents. By msul, 75 cents 

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By CHARLES R. SKINNER, LL.D. 
Former State Superiateadenl Public lastructloa. Sew York 

This little book of messages of good cheer should be in every home and 
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GOODWIN'S COURSE IN SEWING 

By EMMA E. GOODWIN 

A practical course \n sewing, for lionie and school use. 

Book One : Price by mail, 50 cents 
Book Two: Price by mail, 60 cents 
Book Three : Price by mail, 60 cents 

FRANK D. BEATTYS & COMPANY 

225 Fifth Avenue New York City 



^y\ 18 1910 



One copy del. to Cat. Div. 



